Scaling up cosmetic formulations from the lab to full-scale production can be one of the most challenging stages in product development. What works flawlessly in small batches often behaves differently at scale due to variations in mixing, temperature, equipment, and ingredient behavior. This guide explores the key scientific, regulatory, and practical considerations that can help ensure consistency and quality at every stage.  The Frustration of Scale-Up Anyone who has scaled a cosmetic formula knows the frustration: a formulation that performed perfectly in the lab fails when moved to a larger batch. Even slight changes in equipment, mixing speed, or temperature distribution can lead to entirely different results. Historically, formulators had the time and budget to explore these variables through extensive testing, but modern R&D cycles are leaner and faster, making proactive planning more important than ever. Example: A facial cream that emulsified perfectly in a 1-pound batch began separating when scaled to 200 pounds. The issue was traced to the mixing speed and order of ingredient addition, which were slightly different in the larger vessel. Troubleshooting Failed Batches  When a batch fails, start with your records: confirm ingredient lot codes, supplier sources, and ensure that the correct versions of materials were used. If everything aligns, replicate the batch under controlled lab conditions. Comparing the new test with both the successful pilot and failed production batches can help show whether the issue lies in formulation or process execution. If the problem cannot be traced, you must destroy the batch. The FDA does have regulatory standards such as 21 CFR 211.115(b) in which it says that the batch be destroyed rather than reworked to protect consumer safety.  Example: A batch of shampoo turned cloudy during production. Lab recreation revealed that the preservative was added at a higher temperature than recommended, causing instability.  Why Scaling Up Is Not Linear  Scaling up is not as simple as multiplying ingredients. Factors such as surface area, vessel geometry, and fluid dynamics change dramatically with volume. As Paul Vogt, PhD, of Albany Molecular Research notes, 'Nothing ever scales linearly—you never get an easier process as you move up in size.' Understanding how shear rate, heat transfer, and residence time change is essential for consistent product quality. In short: scaling is a science of controlled adaptation, but truly we tend to think of it as a science and an art.   Example: A lotion that needed 10 minutes of mixing in the lab needed 45 minutes in a 500-gallon tank to achieve the same consistency due to slower shear rates.  Key Variables and Common Pitfalls Successful scale-up depends on finding and controlling the process variables that most affect product consistency. Among the most important are mixing speed and duration, heating and cooling rates, ingredient order of addition, and pH adjustment timing. Formulators should also account for changes in viscosity, ensure adequate mixing time between phase additions, and document every step for reproducibility.  Ingredient handling methods also change significantly with scale. For instance, incorporating a 50-pound block of shea butter requires different techniques than using small lab samples. Equipment setup, including pumps, pipes, and mixing blades, must be evaluated to prevent quality variations or mechanical stress on materials.  Example: A body butter did not whip properly because the cooling rate was too fast, causing premature solidification of butter before emulsification.  Mixing, Equipment, and Temperature Control Mixing and temperature control are central to scale-up success. Larger vessels change heat transfer dynamics (heating and cooling take longer), which can affect viscosity, color, and even preservative stability. Increasing temperature to compensate can lead to oxidation or degradation of sensitive ingredients. Pilot-scale testing helps fine-tune parameters before full production and prevents costly large-batch failures.  Example: A serum containing hyaluronic acid lost its viscosity when heated above 156°F during scale-up. Pilot testing helped find the best temperature range.  Scientific and Regulatory Considerations  Under FDA and EU GMP standards, every cosmetic batch must be traceable and reproducible. Maintaining Master Manufacturing Records (MMRs), Batch Production Records (BPRs), and detailed supplier information ensures compliance and helps root-cause analysis. ISO 22716 also requires documented validation for critical parameters such as temperature and mixing.  Example: Quality Control department was able to quickly trace a preservative issue to a specific batch thanks to detailed BPRs, avoiding a costly recall.  Economic and Market Realities Scale-up isn’t purely technical and as a business, you must always remind your formulator and compounders of this, as it is also financial. Ingredient minimum order quantities, packaging lead times, and equipment capacity directly affect batch economics. Many brands now rely on contract manufacturers that provide pilot facilities, automated controls, and digital batch traceability. Using small pilot reactors and data-driven process validation minimizes waste and reduces costs.  Example: A customer reduced production costs by 30% by switching to NourishUs Naturals that offers automated filling lines and bulk ingredient sourcing.  Sustainable Manufacturing The future of cosmetic scale-up is sustainability. As sustainability becomes integral to brand value, practices such as waterless formulation, biodegradable ingredients, and closed-loop systems are becoming industry standards.  Example: Some shampoo brands have reformulated their shampoo into solid bars, reducing water usage, cutting plastic packaging, and thusly earning praise from eco-conscious consumers.  Conclusion Scaling up a cosmetic formula is both a science and an art. It requires patience, precise documentation, and adaptability. By embracing modern tools, regulatory rigor, and data-informed decision-making, formulators can ensure that what works in the lab scales beautifully in production, helping in delivering safe, consistent, and high-quality products every time.  At NourishUs Naturals, we aim to make the manufacturing experience easier, smoother, and more transparent. Call or email our team today to chat with a live representative; our experienced team can help walk you through a large project. We focus on fostering real customer interactions and pride ourselves on transparency, clear communication, and integrity every step of the way. Specializing in small to medium businesses, we are ready to give customers the care and handling they deserve.

Caring about hair, makeup, and clothing isn’t a 21st century concept. While beauty standards have changed across time and cultures, our ancestors have always found ways to beautify themselves using their available resources and knowledge of the world to guide them. Historically, society has used their appearance to signify wealth, status, and personality—and for far longer than you may think. Continue reading to learn about the history of hair care products around the world, and how it has shaped the hair care industry we are used to today. Turning Back the Clock Across continents and centuries, two cultures in particular helped lay the foundation for the cleansing rituals we now recognize as modern hair care: the ancient communities of the Indian subcontinent and the traditional soapmakers of West Africa. Long before chemists bottled formulas or laboratories refined detergents, these societies relied on botanical knowledge, natural resources, and cultural practices to create some of the earliest documented forms of hair cleansing. In South Asia, the practice of chāmpo—a therapeutic massaging and cleansing ritual—emerged as early as the Indus Valley Civilization. People washed their hair with plant-based ingredients rich in natural saponins, such as shikakai, reetha (soapberries), amla, and fenugreek. These herbal blends didn’t just cleanse; they reflected a holistic approach to beauty rooted in Ayurveda, where caring for the hair was intertwined with wellness, ritual, and aromatherapy. This deep tradition is also what ultimately introduced the word shampoo into the English language in 1762, adapted from the Hindi word chāmpo (चाँपो). Meanwhile, in West Africa, generations of artisans developed what the world now knows as African Black Soap, or Ose Dudu. Crafted from plantain peel ash, cocoa pod ash, and nourishing oils like shea or palm, this soap became a versatile staple used for both skin and hair. Its unique composition offered gentle yet effective cleansing, and its production relied on craftsmanship passed down through oral tradition. Though African Black Soap emerged later than the earliest Indian herbal cleansers, it remains one of the oldest historically documented examples of naturally derived soap used for hair care — and represents a profound legacy of ingenuity within African communities. Together, these traditions tell a shared global story: that humans have always sought ways to cleanse, condition, and care for their hair using what nature provided. From saponin-rich botanicals to ash-based soaps, these early practices paved the way—directly and indirectly—for the modern formulations we rely on today, reminding us that the roots of hair care run far deeper than the shelves of any contemporary beauty aisle. Shampoo While the first version of liquid soap was credited to inventor Hans Schwarzkopf in 1927, the modern concept of “shampooing” took shape much earlier. In 1814, Sake Dean Mahomed introduced “Mahomed’s Steam and Vapor Sea Water Medicated Baths” to England, bringing therapeutic scalp massage and cleansing treatments to the Western world. His influence helped spark new interest in hair hygiene and laid the groundwork for commercial shampoo formulas to come. By 1900, Josef Wilhelm Rausch created one of the earliest liquid shampoo products, (Shampooing)Champooing, further modernizing hair cleansing. Schwarzkopf then helped mass-produce and popularize liquid shampoo in Europe, bringing it to the mainstream.But it doesn’t end there! What we know as shampoo today took a major leap in 1934 when Proctor & Gamble introduced the first synthetic, detergent-based liquid shampoo — shifting the industry toward the surfactant-rich formulations still used in most modern products. Conditioner Conditioners help moisturize the hair by adding moisturizing ingredients and locking in natural oils. For thousands of years, people from Mesopotamia, Egypt, Greece, and so on have been using hair oil to do just this, but this does not fit our modern definition of conditioner. What we know as conditioner today didn’t come around until the 20th century when Edouard Pinaud invented and presented it as a product called Brilliantine at the 1900 Parisian Exposition Universelle. It was a perfumed, greasy liquid made of fatty alcohols and silicone and was originally marketed for men’s hair, beards, and mustaches. 80 years later, Proctor and Gamble would once again make history by creating the first 2-in-1 shampoo in 1987. Dry Shampoo One of the earliest renditions of what we know as dry shampoo can be traced back throughout what we know as Asia during the 15th century. Women would apply a dried clay powder to their hair to remove oil, and the people of the Elizabethan era did the same. In the 18th century, men would use starches to freshen their wigs, which is why they were often referred to as “powdered wigs.” It wasn’t until the 1940s that the Stephanie Brooke Company of New Jersey City invented Minipoo, mainly consisting of talc and magnesium carbonate. In the 1970s, Klorane created the first sprayable dry shampoo, but it was marketed towards hospital patients or those who were bed-bound, mainly mothers! But this product took the world by storm, and it was Batiste that ran with it in 1975, making it the most popular dry shampoo brand on the market. Hair Oil As previously mentioned, hair oil has been used for an incredibly long time and is considered an ancient science. Because of how old the application of hair oil is, it is hard to give one period or region credit for its invention, but we can begin by looking at Africa. Africa is a vast continent consisting of 54 distinct countries, but we know that many have used castor oil for myriad applications.Because of the continent’s often sunny and dry conditions, castor oil was the popular choice for keeping hair moisturized. Some historians date it back to 1500 B.C. in ancient Egyptian medical texts, but at the time, it was used to treat eye irritations, so its first use as a hair product is uncertain. Pomade Stylists use pomade, or hair wax, to style the hair and keep it in place. In the past, animal fat was used as a pomade. Once again, we can credit this invention to the ancient Egyptians, who used it to style intricate braids, waves, and curls. Romans and other European tribes did something similar, still using animal fat as the main ingredient. It wasn’t until the 20th century that other ingredients started to replace animal fat. During this time, ingredients such as petroleum jelly and beeswax became more popular, although lard was still used. Even then, it wasn’t until the 2010s that water-based pomades were invented, which are much easier to remove. Hair Relaxers The first hair relaxers were credited to a man named Garret Augustus Morgan, Sr., in 1913, when he invented a product he called G.A. Morgan’s Hair Refiner. This relaxer was a mixture of alkaline chemicals and lye, but lye-based relaxers weren’t commercially processed and sold until the 1970s. As you may well know, lye is a dangerous chemical and would damage the hair if left on for long periods or not washed out completely. However, this does not negate the cultural significance of and the revolution caused by hair relaxers when they were introduced to the African American community. In 1981, Johnson Products Company (who also invented the first permanent hair relaxer in 1965) invented and sold the first non-lye-based hair relaxer known as Gentle Treatment. While it still used alkaline chemicals, it contained chemicals that were less harsh, such as potassium hydroxide and lithium hydroxide.     Ultimately, what we can take away from this history is that caring for your hair goes back generations, is different in each place in the world, and always takes inspiration from its natural surroundings. Looking for hair care products that prioritize these same ingredients utilized by our ancestors? NourishUs Naturals provides you with an entire hair care catalog to choose from, starting with wholesale shampoo and conditioners, to high end hair oils. With superstar ingredients like honey, aloe, chamomile, shea butter, jojoba oil, and much more, our dedication to formulating products that make you look and feel your best is incomparable.

NourishUs Naturals: Important Information for Cosmetic Resellers As of July 1, 2024, the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act (MoCRA) has been implemented. NourishUs Naturals is not liable for the legal obligations associated with their customers selling cosmetics, we are only liable for ours. However, we strongly advise our customers to obtain at least a basic liability insurance policy if they plan to resell products. We also recommend testing any products you purchase from us, especially if you’re adding other ingredients to them. While we stand by the quality of our products, once the container is opened, we cannot be held accountable for it, as we cannot truly verify how it has been handled or stored.   Facility Registration All U.S. cosmetic products must be produced in FDA-registered facilities. NourishUs Naturals' facility number (FEI) is 3003887109, located at 2245 NW Nicolai, Portland, OR 97210.   Small Business Exemptions Small businesses with annual sales under $1 million may be exempt from some requirements, except for products posing higher risks, such as those used near the eyes or intended for internal use. Good Manufacturing Practices (GMPs) By the end of 2025, cosmetic products must be manufactured according to FDA-issued GMPs. NourishUs Naturals, is cGMP certified, and will ensure all products meet these standards. Registration and Listing Facilities that manufacture or process cosmetic products for U.S. distribution must register with the FDA and renew their registration every two years. Companies must also provide annual product listings. Adverse Event Reporting Companies must report serious adverse events to the FDA within 15 days and maintain records. Serious adverse events include those leading to death, hospitalization, significant disability, or disfigurement. Safety Substantiation Manufacturers must ensure the safety of their products through testing, research, or other evidence. NourishUs Naturals provides third-party testing results for newer products and evidence for older ones. Customer Compliance Responsibilities Our customers are responsible for complying with all federal, state, and local regulations throughout the entire lifecycle of the product. NourishUs Naturals can provide Safety Data Sheets (SDS) and Certificates of Analysis (CoA) for products we manufacture and sell. We urge all customers to seek legal counsel to ensure their products meet all applicable regulatory requirements. Labeling and Packaging Cosmetic products must comply with FDA and state labeling requirements, including country-of-origin labeling. Packaging must be safe and compliant with regulations.   General Definitions Definition of Cosmetics According to the FD&C Act, cosmetics are defined as “articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance.” Cosmetics categories include: Baby products such as shampoos and lotions Bath preparations such as bath oils and bath soaks Eye makeup preparations such as eyeliner and mascara that doesn’t make claim to hair growth Fragrance preparations such as cologne and perfumes Hair preparations such as conditioners and styling products Makeup preparations such as foundations and blushes Manicuring preparations such as nail polishes and cuticle oils Oral products such as mouthwashes or toothpastes that don’t claim to whiten teeth Personal cleanliness products such as shower gels and deodorants Shaving preparations such as shaving cream and aftershave splash Skin care preparations such as creams and lotions Suntan preparations such as tanning lotions and oils Tattoo preparations Some traditional soap products fall outside the FD&C Act definition of cosmetics, but many are still regulated as cosmetics, especially if they claim to moisturize or deodorize. Products intended for animal use are not regulated by the FDA but by the Consumer Product Safety Commission. Cosmetic Tools and Accessories Tools and accessories designed to enhance appearance, such as hair dryers, nail clippers, and makeup brushes, are regulated by the Consumer Product Safety Commission, not the FDA. NourishUs Naturals sells a few supplies and packaging options. Cosmetics as Drugs or Medical Devices Some cosmetic products may be treated as drugs or medical devices if they are intended to treat or cure diseases or affect the body's structure or function. Examples include: Skin Disease treatments such as Acne, Psoriasis, etc; Antiperspirants Sunscreen products even once that claim a protection without a qualifying SPF number. Dandruff and thinning hair treatments Hair removal device.   Regulations to Know About Legal Requirements for Cosmetics Cosmetics must meet various federal and state regulations, including manufacturing standards, safety reporting, and registration/listing with the FDA. Labels must include an identity statement, quantity of contents, manufacturer details, material facts, warnings, and ingredient lists FDA Approval for Cosmetics Cosmetics do not require FDA approval, but they must comply with all relevant regulations, including ingredient restrictions, manufacturing practices, and labeling requirements. Cosmetic Product Ingredient Statement FDA Form 2512 is frequently requested when selling in certain markets. This form is not a requirement by the FDA but can be helpful. The form should be filled out by the individual brands as the information requested is regarding the final retail product. Big Box Store Regulations Before selling to major retailers, ensure compliance with their specific regulations. State Requirements Some states have additional licensing and registration requirements beyond federal ones. Check with your local commerce department for specifics. Claim Verification All product claims must be truthful and substantiated. Claims about treating diseases or affecting the body's structure may classify a product as a drug. The FTC regulates cosmetic advertising and requires all claims to be supported by scientific evidence. References and Regulations FD&C Act and FDA regulations Cosmetic labeling and GMP guides FTC compliance guides ISO 22716 certification for GMP

Cosmetic Thickeners and Natural Polymers add texture and help stabilize lotions and creams, and also create a wide variety of different gels. Although they all perform the same function in a lotion, cream, or gel, they each have unique properties and can change the look and feel of your final product. Selecting the right one for your project can be a little overwhelming given the wide variety available. There are also many synthetic thickeners and polymers, but our focus at Essential is on green chemistry and sustainability so we’ve selected the most popular natural cosmetic thickeners to highlight. Hopefully it will help you select the best one for your needs. A quick note on definitions: a polymer is essentially just a large grouping of smaller units that make up a substance. All gums are polymers. Their general use, as outlined above, is to either stabilize emulsions or create a gel, i.e. to thicken something like a mask so it stays on your face rather than dripping off. Additionally, they not only stabilize and thicken, but many natural polymers have excellent skin benefits, including things like Konjac Powder and Hyaluronic Acid (HA). (NOTE: Check out our recipe for a Hyaluronic Acid Serum at the bottom of this post.) Working with Thickeners and Natural Polymers There are a few tricks that make working with natural polymers and thickeners much easier. For example, dispersing a gum in glycerin makes it much easier to mix into your product. In general, gums will not hydrate in glycerin, but they will disperse. This dispersion of the powder essentially eliminates the risk of forming “fish eyes”. Fish eyes is a term used to describe the formation of gooey round clumps that form when a gum hydrates unevenly. If you do not want glycerin in your product, you can add your thickener by slowly sprinkling it into your product while high shear mixing. This method requires patience and time, making it a little harder to scale up to very large batch sizes. Xanthan Gum By far the most commonly used natural gum in cosmetics, this affordable and easy to use gum is derived from the fermentation of the plant bacteria Xanthomonas Campestris. This anionic polysaccharide will disperse in vegetable glycerin, but will not hydrate. Xanthan gum is widely used because it is compatible with most ingredients used in cosmetics and it’s readily available and versatile. Xanthan gum will hydrate in hot or cold water and creates a hazy but neutral pH solution. This gum will create a gel that can tolerate the addition of a wide range of water-soluble active ingredients. Xanthan is also highly synergistic with galactomannans like Konjac. When Xanthan is mixed with Konjac, the viscosity of the gel will increase dramatically. Xanthan is also resistant to heat and shearing, making the gels produced with Xanthan highly stable. This is especially beneficial if you are shipping your products in high heat or to locations that are hot and humid. Hydroxyethylcellulose Hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) is a nonionic natural polymer made from plant cellulose. It’s made by exposing purified cellulose to sodium hydroxide and then reacting the alkali-treated cellulose with ethylene oxide. The hydrogen atoms in pendant hydroxyl (—OH) groups are replaced with hydroxyethyl groups, leading to a water-soluble polymer. Like Xanthan gum, HEC will form a pH neutral gel at 1%, but unlike Xanthan, this gel will be clear and colorless. HEC is soluble in hot or cold water and can also be dispersed in glycerin. HEC is compatible with most other gums but works especially well with sodium alginate. Acacia Gum This anionic polysaccharide is collected from the sap of the acacia tree. Acacia gum is a naturally-occurring gum soluble in hot or cold water and gives a clear solution of neutral to acidic pH. This gum is not a thickener unless used in concentrations above 40%, and this viscosity is lost at elevated temperatures making it less desirable for most formulations. Acacia gum will help solubilize oils into water without increasing viscosity. This makes acacia a good choice to help incorporate essential oils into low viscosity water-based products like toners and sprays. Acacia works best when used at a 3:1 or even 4:1 ratio of acacia to essential oil. It also pairs well with other gums to help stabilize formulations. Konjac Konjac Powder is comprised of a high viscosity soluble fiber called glucomannan, which can expand to 100 times its volume in water making it an extremely effective humectant in cosmetics. Konjac is rich in protein, lipids, fatty acids, plus vitamins A, B, C, D, & E, and natural minerals such as copper, zinc and magnesium. Konjac forms a clear, colorless gel and when mixed with xanthan gum, viscosity increases dramatically. Sclerotium Gum Sclerotium Gum is non-ionic thickener made from a fermented fungus. This versatile gum has high thermal stability and can help to enhance the skin’s moisture barrier, preventing trans-epidermal water loss and helping to keep the skin moisturized. Sclerotium will form a gel at 0.8% and is stable in a wide range of temperatures, salt concentrations, and pH. It can also be used with a high amount of ethanol (up to 20%) and glycols (up to 25%). Sclerotium gum is an excellent choice as a suspending agent, meaning that particles dispersed in a sclerotium gum gel will remain suspended without settling. Sclerotium gum is also a great choice when formulating with alpha-hydroxy acids. Hyaluronic Acid Hyaluronic Acid (HLA) forms a pH neutral colorless and crystal clear gel. Hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate are often used interchangeably, and they are essentially the same thing. Sodium hyaluronate is the salt of hyaluronic acid developed to reduce oxidation, whereas hyaluronic acid is just hyaluronic acid. Both exist naturally in the human body, however, hyaluronic acid is usually created by bio-fermentation in a lab rather than harvesting from rooster combs. Generally in skincare, when you see hyaluronic acid, it means sodium hyaluronate that was lab-created to be bioidentical to the hyaluronic acid found in nature. Size Matters! 20,000 Daltons Vs. 2,000,000 Daltons When it comes to hyaluronic acid, size does matter. Size in chemistry is measured in Daltons. A Dalton is a standard unit of measure that quantifies mass on an atomic or molecular scale (atomic mass). The lower the molecular weight, the smaller the size of the molecule. This is particularly important when choosing which hyaluronic acid to use in a skincare formulation. Lower weight HLA will not form a gel, and it is suggested that the lower molecular weight can cause irritation. Higher weight HLA will form a viscous gel, is less likely to irritate the skin, and it’s more effective as a humectant. Check out our video on hyaluronic acid for a visible demonstration of the different weights and check out this simple recipe for creating your own hyaluronic acid serum. Gum Thickeners in Hair Care and Skincare BONUS: Hyaluronic Acid Facial Serum Recipe Equipment You’ll Need Stove top safe pot or beaker Stick blender or high shear mixer Measuring cups/spoon or scale DIFFICULTY LEVEL: EasyApproximate yield: 1 PoundApproximate cost per pound:  $2.54 Suggested Packaging: 1 oz airless pumpSuggested retail price:  $15 – $20 Ingredients Ingredient Weight – (pounds) Kitchen Measurements Percentage by weight Cosmetic Water (Deionized Water) .9731 2 Cups 97.5 Hyaluronic Acid Powder .0100 1Tbsp 1 Phenoxyethanol .0100 ½ TBSP 1 Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate .0050 1Tsp 0.5   Directions Heat water to 120F – 130F Slowly sprinkle Hyaluronic Acid Powder into the water while mixing with your stick blender or high shear mixer. Add Phenoxyethanol and Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate to preserve. Use on clean face after toner/astringent. Let absorb into skin, then apply moisturizer. Please note that this recipe has not been challenge tested for preservation efficacy. If you use this recipe for market sales, it is up to you to ensure the safety of the product.nouri